Ships and Cabins Best short cruise: Seabourn Quest’s seven-day Baltic experience is short and to the point—ideal if one wishes to absorb all that this area offers in a brief time. Sail from Stockholm to Copenhagen, perhaps taking in more of these cities pre- and post-cruise, and in between enjoy three days in St. Petersburg plus visits to Tallin and Helsinki. Best-value ship: There are many all-inclusive options out there, but Crystal Cruises rises above the others for its refusal to skimp on the things that you’ve already paid for—crisp uniforms, top-notch staff, the highest-quality beverages, constantly changing menus…all are a cut above, and fares are still very competitive with competitors’ cruises. Best ship for a splurge: Silversea’s Silver Whisper is a boutique-sized vessel that offers sophisticated itineraries. Clients rave about the Silver Suites—650-700 square feet, all located mid-ship—which have a layout designed for good flow and lovely appointments such as Pratesi linens and Bang & Olufsen sound systems. With just 382 guests, the Silver Whisper is perfect for a Baltic cruise, as it’s typically able to dock right in downtown St. Petersburg, thus avoiding the 30-minute ride from the outer port and allowing passengers to enjoy the night scene of the palaces lit up along the river. Best large ship: Crystal Serenity fits 1,000 passengers, making it the largest ship in its price range, but it never feels overpopulated. Lines just do not exist on board, whether for the lido buffet or boarding tenders—and the size of the vessel allows for wonderful public spaces and a variety of activities, from multiple restaurants to educational lectures to spinning and yoga classes in the gym. The Sea Dream anchored off Capri, Italy. Photo courtesy Sea Dream Yacht Club. Best small ship: The small size of Sea Dream Yacht Club’s two ships make for tighter
Ships and Cabins Best short cruise: Seabourn Quest’s seven-day Baltic experience is short and to the point—ideal if one wishes to absorb all that this area offers in a brief time. Sail from Stockholm to Copenhagen, perhaps taking in more of these cities pre- and post-cruise, and in between enjoy three days in St. Petersburg plus
Hotels worth the splurge The Four Seasons Bosphorus is the best hotel in Istanbul. I recommend taking the Courtyard rooms or the Palace Courtyard rooms, as they’re a third the price of Bosphorus-view rooms. You can enjoy the views of the water from the hotel’s huge terrace or the restaurant and save a fortune. My travelers receive a full American breakfast, either in their room or in the restaurant, a $100 food and beverage credit, and a one-category upgrade based on availability. People also love the Park Hyatt. There is no view here, but the rooms are beautiful, and there is a lovely pool on the terrace. The hotel is in the Nisantasi neighborhood, which is one of the chicest areas of Istanbul. My travelers receive breakfast and a space-available upgrade here. Restaurants the locals love At Ciya Sofrasi, in Kadikoy, on the Asian side, Chef Musa Dagdeverin is a culinary archaeologist, unearthing long-forgotten Anatolian foods from all over Turkey and preparing them with the finest and freshest ingredients. Chef Dilara Erbay’s latest restaurant, Datli Maya, is a tiny place that serves what they’re calling “slow fast food.” Everything is delicious. I especially like the pide (Turkish pizza). The restaurant is so small that guests have to use the bathroom at the mosque across the street, but the food is so wonderful that it’s worth it! Savoy Balikci is a local fish tavern, and my favorite hangout. Have whatever fish is in season—I look forward to winter, when I always have the hamsi (fried anchovies). All the mezes are great, too. Best brunch spot Turks take breakfast very seriously—Turkey is probably the only place in the world where you will be invited to someone’s home for breakfast. The next best thing is to have a long, leisurely brunch at Kahve 6. Be sure
Hotels worth the splurge The Four Seasons Bosphorus is the best hotel in Istanbul. I recommend taking the Courtyard rooms or the Palace Courtyard rooms, as they’re a third the price of Bosphorus-view rooms. You can enjoy the views of the water from the hotel’s huge terrace or the restaurant and save a fortune. My
Where to Stay and Eat By land or sea? Although there are some fabulous seaside resorts up and down the Aegean coast, I highly recommend working some gulet time into any trip here. Sailing is the most amazing way to see this spectacular part of Turkey. If you’re making the standard circuit of Istanbul, Cappadocia and Ephesus, you can drive from Ephesus to Bodrum and set sail from there. A week is the ideal sail length—with resort time before or after—but if you want to spend more of your trip on land, we can easily arrange a one-day boat charter so you can view the sea and get some water sports in. Resort worth the splurge The new Mandarin Oriental, 15 miles from Bodrum on its own gorgeous bay, is pricey but has gotten rave reviews from my guests. Best bang-for-your-buck resort Macakizi Hotel. People like this hillside hotel’s gardens and comfortable rooms—and they love its views of the Aegean’s protected Turkbuku Bay, 45 minutes east of Bodrum Town. Most think the best views can only come from pricey suites, but I can book you an Upper Deck Seaview room where you’ll see the same vistas while paying a less-expensive rate. It’s just a few extra steps up the hill. Breakfast, dinner, and use of the beach club are included. Restaurants the locals love In Bodrum: The town’s best seafood is at Korfez, a simple and beloved place where the only appropriate order is the fish of the day. But that’s not the only place in town for great fish: Gembasi’s regular crowd comes for its seafood pasta; fish stew is the must-try at the upscale Kocadon; and the marina’s Musto Bistro serves its octopus with grilled eggplant, homemade bread and affordable wines. Bodrum Turkey. Photo courtesy Karen Fedorko Sefer Meals worth
Where to Stay and Eat By land or sea? Although there are some fabulous seaside resorts up and down the Aegean coast, I highly recommend working some gulet time into any trip here. Sailing is the most amazing way to see this spectacular part of Turkey. If you’re making the standard circuit of Istanbul, Cappadocia
